Raspberries

Raspberries are native to northern Europe and so are tolerant of moist soils than many other fruits. Add plenty of bulk organic matter, particularly to sandy or chalky soils with a good thickness of top soil, prior to planting. This will help them maintain moisture during summer when the fruits are swelling and the plants need to sustain their lush foliage.

Raspberries will not tolerate waterlogged soils, especially in winter, this will encourage root disease and rotting

Pot Grown Raspberries
As well as allowing gardeners with balconies and patioos to grow these fruits, pot culture also enables the cropping season to be extended as the plants can be moved under cover in spring and autumn

Pot up raspberry canes in autumn, three to a 30cm pot, using 50:50 John Innes No 3 multipurpose potting compost, make sure they are well fed and watered during summer months (I recommend irrigation for this)

Summer raspberries require a sturdy support system - run two wires - one 60cm (2ft) high and the other 1.5m (5ft) high - along the length of the row. Autumn raspberries don´t need support

In early summer, pull up suckers between the rows of summer raspberries, thin autumn raspberries to 10cm (4in) apart. Cut out fruited summer canes once they´ve finished cropping and tie in new ones, thinning them out to 10cm (4in) apart. Cut autumn raspberry canes down to the ground in mid winter

Raspberry beetle is the main pest of these fruits. Dried up patches develop at the fruit's stalk end in midsummer, and a small, white maggot, up to 8mm long, is often found inside the fruits.

Discard established plants showing symptoms such as stunting, distortion or irregular leaf yellowing

Tell us which raspberries you are growing

Some varieties are
Glen Moy
Malling Admiral
Polka
Glen Ample
Leo
Autumn Bliss

	Author	Topic: Raspberries (Read 780 times)
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